FAQ

PAVERS FAQs
Contact Allied Pavers if you need pavers in Naples, Marco Island or beyond.

To seal or not to seal?
It is not necessary to seal pavers. Sealing does however retard fading of paver color and provides a measure of protection from some stains. Before sealing, pavers must be clean and dry. It is recommended that you wait at least 30 days after installation before sealing. Once sealed, you will need to re-seal approximately every two to three years.

My pavers are spreading, what's wrong?
Paver installation should start with the proper base material for the job. Crushed rock with approximately 1 ½" of concrete or gunite sand is recommended. Installation of proper edge restraints is key to preventing spreading of pavers.

Interlocking Pavers vs Concrete
Pavers are environmentally friendly. If you have an underground repair to do, simply remove the pavers in the area, complete the repair and replace them. Not so simple with permanent concrete. Because pavers are a flexible pavement, you will not have surface cracks that usually occur with the use of regular concrete. P.S. Interlocking pavers add resale value to your home. They are aesthetically pleasing and create curb appeal.

How do I keep my pavers clean?
There are products available that are specifically made for cleaning pavers. You can use a pressure cleaner on pavers but do not use more than 1,000 to 1,200 psi of pressure or you could cause damage to the paver surface. If you have serious stains such as tire marks, you should consider hiring a professional.

How can I control the ants and weeds?
The easiest way to control ants and grass is to either seal your pavers or use a Belgard Polymeric Sand or Techniseal Joint Sand Stabilizer. You can use a weed killer such as Round-Up, or an insecticide such as Andro. These will not stain your pavers.

What is the difference between a brick and a paver?
“Brick” is a common term that generally applies to clay products. Face brick are typically cored (which means they have holes in them) and used for vertical applications, there are many different sizes available. Pavers can be made of clay or concrete and are used for horizontal applications, there are different sizes and thicknesses available.

How do you get the material off of your trucks when delivering?
Our deliveries are made via semi-trucks, which are equipped with a special forklift called a moffet on the back. This forklift detaches from the truck and can place your material near the area you need, providing there is a minimum of a ten foot wide and ten foot tall opening for the forklift to get through to the area. These are heavy machines, please take into consideration these could damage things, such as sprinkler heads, when deciding where you would like your material placed.

LANDSCAPE FAQs

What type of base should I use for brick paving?
A flexible base consists of compacted crushed stone, gravel or coarse sand. Only mortarless brick paving is suitable for this type of base. A semi-rigid base consists of asphalt concrete, commonly referred to as asphalt. Once again, only mortarless brick paving is suitable over this type of base. A rigid base is defined as a reinforced or unreinforced concrete slab on grade. Mortarless or mortared brick paving may be placed over this type of base.

Can brick pavers be installed over an existing concrete or asphalt driveway, patio or walk?
Brick paving can be installed over existing concrete or asphalt as long as it is in reasonably good shape. To ensure an adequate foundation for the brick, the existing concrete slab or asphalt should be inspected and repaired as necessary. Any cracks, chips, holes, ruts or spalls should be repaired in order to achieve a flat surface.

RETAINING WALL FAQs

How high can I go with my wall?
The maximum height, including imbedded first course, for a gravity (non-reinforced) retaining wall using the following products is:
Vertica Pro: 6 feet 3 inches, including 6” embedment (5 feet 9” above grade)* (10 courses)
Vertica: 3 feet 1.5 inches, including 6” embedment (2 feet 7.5” above grade)* (5 courses)
Diamond Pro: 3 feet 4 inches, including 6” embedment (34” above grade)* (5 courses)
Highland: 4 feet, including 6” embedment (3 ½ feet above grade)* (7 courses)
Bayfield: 3 feet, including 6” embedment (2 ½ feet above grade)* (6 courses)
Diamond: 4 feet, including 6” embedment (3 ½ feet above grade) * (7 courses)

Can I build multiple or terraced gravity walls to stay at or under the recommended maximum wall height?
Yes, however, a terraced wall creates a surcharge load on the lower wall. Therefore, the distance between the walls should be greater than two times the height of the first (lower) wall. Example: if the first (lower) wall is 3 feet high, then the second wall must start at least 6 feet behind it. There are exceptions to this rule, but, engineering is required because the walls are no longer considered independent.

What holds the wall in place?
An integral rear lip or raised locator (Vertica) is manufactured into the blocks. The lip and locator automatically guides each new course; ensuring proper alignment and precise setback. No Pins. No Mortar.

Do I need to / or can I set the wall on concrete footings or slabs?
Concrete footings and pads will add considerable expense and will not allow the system to blend in and move. Therefore, they are not recommended or necessary. However, if they exist, the blocks can be installed on top of them provided at least one full block is buried below grade or the blocks are glued to the footer using a concrete adhesive.

What is the smallest radius I can make?
The minimum radius is measured to the face of the blocks.
Vertica Pro (Bev & Str) 7 feet outside 7 feet inside
Vertica Beveled: 4 feet outside 7 feet inside
Vertica Straight: 7 feet outside 7 feet inside
Diamond Pro Bev: 2 feet outside 4 feet inside
Diamond Pro Str: 4 feet outside 8 feet inside
Diamond Beveled: 2 feet outside 4 feet inside
Diamond Straight: 4 feet outside 8 feet inside
Highland: 4 feet outside 8 feet inside
Bayfield: 4 feet outside 8 feet inside
Aspen: 2 feet outside 4 feet inside